In baseball it’s called your summer family, in surfing it’s your winter family, when the ocean awakens sleeping giants. This was early in November.
Stand Up Steve
By Tyler Lucas Mobley
Paddles up mirroring messiah,
been awhile since we caught up,
as an aging surfer, he’s apprenticing
under a wave guru up north, one of
the salty till senile types. “My pop up
is good for a few waves, then I’m just
blowing it. I’ll do anything to stay on a
shortboard, motioning his paddle at the
monstrosity of buoyancy under foot.
Being able to set that line and go, with
this, making moch jump as though he
had cinder block feet. A crystalizing
thought, “less resistance, all response.”
Announced in the manner of mention,
they let the words hang for a moment
grappling with how minutia of honest
pursuits mirror life at their core. Being
in the world, a deepening of self.